audiard2

entshuldidung aber mein Deutsch ist zu wenige... Was ist "lauftbahn" in den motor??? (in english maybe easier...)

QK 1,1mm, kein fudi nur fenstern uberarbeitet.... 125/185 die welle:125/65 in progress Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

ne krücke? Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us dremel skimmed head: Uploaded with ImageShack.us SI 24 slightly ovalized, idle jet 160/55, main 160/BE3/138, P-D S-box, 23/65 and: Uploaded with ImageShack.us almost 16 hp at the wheel

next step is an etronic ignition?

did you keep the breaker ignition on it?

I have a rev counter (not really accurate) look at the dyno run: 9000 really fast but Pmax is at 6700 and it goes down quickly afterwards... The BE5 seems to give more power. The leaning out of Idle jetting (120/50) gives an extra bottom power really usefull. The engine is really efficient with lot of torque at reasonable revs. Next step is the BE1 with his four 1mm holes on the tiny section (BE3 1,2mm) Air filter is drilled (such a mess upon the idle jet....) I'm pretty sure the B-S will provide a higher power peak and an extra power range till higher Revs... limits of the frame/ brakes/ absorbers are really closed....

why it didn't work?

das ist kein problem! Wechsle papierdichtung und weg!

2 more shots of the boost port and piston modifications to allow gaz flow to feed it: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Yes, curare (scauri too) knows how to use his dremel... My boost port is 4-5 mm deep. The engine is still waiting for his frame ( lack of place), so I don't really know about his reliability; it can't be worse than the original. bore clearance is just fine, you need to reduce a lot your ignition advance (21-20° max) to avoid classic heat seizure. Don't forget to jet it a bit too rich ( 160/BE3/125 at least) and use a 4% synthetic oil during the running in... just another previously unable shots of the exhaust: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

My O-tuning SS/ standard GS Uploaded with ImageShack.us

just for fun Uploaded with ImageShack.us

for information: Uploaded with ImageShack.us

0,205 mm at 5 mm under the lower ring. Do you have still some transfert port with a 66,5 mm piston?? What will you do with the boost port window on the new piston?

the mytronic is fitted from the very start of the the project. I will test every SI tuning possibilities without any taboo. I'll wait till I get the BS before a new dyno run (a bit too teuer (60 euros) !)

Quite impressive and technical!

just some old (and accurate) craps about weber carburators to cope with the "braking system" of the mixture tube (emulsion tube): Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

got the kürve! unfortunatly it's a dynojet not a P4.. So the power is somewhere between wheel and crank... Big Boss said to me my jetting was too rich at idle/low-mid revs. You were right: I need to lean out a bit my idle and change my mixture tube. I tried this afternoon to fit a 120/BE5/125 and a 110/50. Seems to work perfectly and I can open full throttle without going 4 stroke for a while. I have nothing to lose to test the BE3 next time and see how it works. I lost 0,3 hp just screwing in half a turn the mixture screw!!! I'm a bit surprise of such an effect on the complete range! PEP3 seems to reso a bit too low for the T5. I've ordered a basic star and Marco told me it will be finished today, so i'll get it within a few days in Paris. I've ordered the MMW head too. Thank you for your advice. I will give a look to your link about "SI vergasser und Duesen!" I can read technical german but hardly write it without making such mistakes.... Uploaded with ImageShack.us

News from the west! I've changed my main jetting for a 120/ modified BE4/128 in place of a 120/BE4/125. I had previously tried the 120/BE4/128 but it was clearly a bit too rich. I've rebored 2 of the 4 upper hole on the mixture tube from 1 mm to 1,2 mm to brake a bit more gas flow till higher rpm. Now 128 is just fine and allow the engine to rev a bit higher without any sign of heavy richness. From left to right: BE1- standard BE4-modified BE4/128 Uploaded with ImageShack.us Next step is a dyno on the 20th of march.

before: Uploaded with ImageShack.us after: piston skirt seems fragile so I leave a bit of it on the boost port side Uploaded with ImageShack.us It's an old and crappy spanish T5 without autolub nor starter. It was in a really bad shape when I got it: case broken and welded at the flywheel bearing spot ( hidden behind the stator plate), inlet "ganz" destroyed ( must have swallowed a piece of metal to get such a mess!) and silent blocks out of work: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us I had to reshape the inlet pad with kaltmetal... clutch is 20 tooth and standard T5 gearing. Just a street puller.... I 've made the complete "o-tuning fuer duemmies" on my 200 it works very well too with an ovalized carb. But getting old and wise I'n not sure now it changes really something... So new project and new tests on a complete and straight inlet (almost....) It works like a bullet... I've order a P-D basic star just to see if I can get the last poney out of this engine. Thank you for the link; I'm gonna watch this really carefully...

BE3 is leaner than BE4 (more and bigger holes on BE3 that brake the gaz flow till a higher RPM, so leaner till a higher RPM) useless on a small capacity like a 125CC and usefull for a 170 and more to avoid a too rich idle and mid RPM ( on a SI 24 of course) SIp banded basket cluch with a DR 4 disc in. Works perfectly (not a fooking Cosa clutch....)... The boost port is now really open: Uploaded with ImageShack.us SI ovalisation is a non sens and kills gaz flow speed and venturi advantage... I've tried to make the inlet the most straight possibile and a bit piston oriented: Air filter is just drilled upon the main jet (3mm bore but not upon the idle one: I don't really need to lean out this part of the rpm....) Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Squish is 1- 1,1 mm Is there a MMW spare head in 55mm ?? Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Is your piston still enough guided??

found a 63,4mm on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/370543867060?item=370543867060&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&cmd=ViewItem&hash=item564622b4b4&vxp=mtr#ht_2174wt_1111

here is my Malossi T5 that got an old seizure and 5-6000 km at least on, with the transfert ports same as yours (look the date on the exhaust!): Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Hello ,I'm re opening this thread because I've completed my o-tuning T5 some weeks ago (pictures on T5 o-tuning...) set-up: massive porting and matching case/cylinder inlet: 125/65=190° fudi 1mm Transfert:122° Ex:182° VA:30° SI 24G with standard Idle jet 50/100 and 120/BE4/125 on main I've left the original ignition with a lightened 1,5kg flywheel on. I put a Mytronic (curve 4) to get back some torke at low rev ( advance 23° between 2000- 4500 RPM and 15° around 8000...) Pep3 but it's a shito+ tweak and it makes an awfull tiny noise. The engine is a screamer and begins to deliver a huge load of power from 4800 to ... I don't know: I'm still running in! It seems to me that it's close to a 172 cc but with a restrained bandwith of torke.... I've ordered a basic star to replace the pep3 and i saw in the first post that it was not really " reserverad" tauglich. Marco Rentzmann says it's ok with the stand and the spare wheel for the charger, which is a big brother of the BS. who should I believe???