amazombi

warum? die L-ringe sind eher rotz, sonst war das halt ein gußkolben durchschnittlicher qualität. oder was kann der was andere nicht können?

da fühle ich mich schon angesprochen. was hat das aber mit dem zylinder hier zu tun?

ganz ehrlich iss sie nicht so fit wie ich es sage. sie ist so fit wie die ergebnisse ihrer arbeit es für jeden fachlich einigermaßen versierten auf der strecke, auf dem prüfstand und im persönlichen kontakt unmißverständlich zum ausdruck bringen. und eben weil das so ist braucht sie weder mich noch sonst jemanden um ihre kompetenz zu verteidigen. ich hingegen habe das dringende bedürfniss dir als auffallend ausfallendem, niedrigkompetenten und lautstarken rüpel mitzuteilen dass du nicht nur inhaltliche defizite hast. was genau hattest du im technikteil bis dato beizutragen, du wurst?

bei uns steht die auch nur einen meter oder so weg, und das ist, wie weiter oben geschrieben, auch schon ziemlich exakt einmal vorgekommen. laut amerschläger hängt das aber auch von dem raum ab, manche räume scheinen empfindlicher als andere. ich versteh' das ganze zeug ja selbst nur halb, gebe als nur (fragmentarisch) gehörtes wieder.

eine smallframe braucht für 135 bei kleinerer stirnfläche als eine px bei voll einfaltetem fahrer und passenden getriebe grob 20 ps. warum eine px mit 14, mehr gewicht, mehr stirnfläche mit weniger leistung genau so schnell sein soll weiß ich nicht. deckt sich auch nicht mit dem was man auf der einen oder anderen rennstrecke von px-en sieht. da fährt namlich eine 20ps smallframe auf der geraden einer stärkeren px einfach mal weg.

guter und berechtigter einwand. iss aber im endeffekt latte. wenn die karre gut läuft und spaß macht passt das doch alles.

guter tip, endlich mal einer der sich mit dem seltenen fahrzeug auskennt. trifft man ja nun wirklich nicht an jeder ecke. danke, schau ich morgen direkt mal.

ich bin mit meiner lammy auf einem golf 1 gti tacho mal in einem gefälle 180 auf einer recht stark befahrenen autobahn (dauerwindschatten) gefahren. meinte der golf-fahrer schwerstens beeindruckt an der tankstelle danach. mein digitaler fahrradtacho mit höchstgeschwindigkeitsspeicher spuckte dann immer noch beachtliche 152 oder so aus. unrealistisch lang übersetzt wohlgemerkt, und mit knapp 30ps am rad. nach der kurve oben geben ich der karre realistisch 125. einfach mal gps oder digitaltacho dran. die wahrheit tut aber manchmal weh.

schürze hab' ich verhökert, tucano urbano passend für pk xl II iss im anmarsch. scheibe hat nicht gepasst. so'n fuck. die hat von unten gar keine löcher mehr. also die karre jetzt. alles voll gay.

i have talked to the guy who makes the amerschläger p4 just a minute ago. he told me that the "klimabox", the part which measures all relevant data of the environment, sometimes is affected by the electric impulses or whatever that is called in your language of the ignition. the pvl or selettra ignitions in particular are notorious for doing that. the solution is to remove the climate box a bit further away from the ignition, double distance means four times weaker impuls, hence one or two meters further away is highly likely to cure the problem permanently. i would also suggest to do the dyno runs in third gear, second gear, which appears to be what you are using, makes for a rather short run which is likely to leave the exhaust gas temperature rather low (not enough load for the pipe to heat up), which is somewhat unrealistic then. best do a number of runs with each setup (difficult because your bench does not seem to have vents to get the exhaust fumes out) as power tends to vary slightly with cold engine, only when you have reached working temperature will the curves be constant. for the sake of accuracy you ought to make sure that is the case. for head variations anything but a malossi head (with the exception of items made in small batches, such as the gerhead) is utterly useless. a polini head does not have meat enough in standard shape, let alone after machining it to get the squish right. the polini will forever be leaking, no mater how much lapping down you do. my personal opinion would be that decent development work is impossible without a minimum workshop equipment, can't think of a way to vary a satisfying number of factors in an acceptable span of time without even a lathe at hand. i would also suggest to make sure the head geometry and squish band is within an acceptable range, this makes or marrs the whole thing. a piston to head clearance of 1,5mm and over definitely is an anachrononism regardless of the quality of pump fuel available locally. the redeveloped s&s pipe may or may not be in the next shipment from fareast, i guess only time will tell. btw, the highest power figure of a 136 smallframe engine capable of surviving severe thrashing around an f1 track is in the region of 25 ps. credit there goes to salih, and she has proven time and again that this works. anybody saying this is not possible clearly lacks knowledge if not skill to evaluate that. if you want to see what is possible check both the falc topic (in terms of performance this could well be the sort of opponent you have stepped into the ring to beat) and the "wer hat welche leistung" topic. as i have said my falc makes 30,3 ps at a bit over 9 grand. this required a bit of pipe development and fine tuning here and there, but apart from that is is plug and play without any welding whatsoever, and yes, it does surive full throttle on the road (early days whether it will work on the track yet, according to egt behaviour it should though). the m1l topic may also be of interest since this appears to be your nearest competitor in terms of low-effort-plug-and-play daily rideability. as you can see it makes around 23 ps or so at the moment, that's throwing the thing on as it comes out of the box more or less. it is a plated aluminium cylinder with excellent casting quality, which, depending where you buy it from, retails for a very reasonable price of under 400 euro as a complete kit.

bei mir waren's eher 5.

@gerhard: guter artikel. habe gerade das spannwerkzeug zum zylinder abdrehen fertig gebaut. schick.

isses ja auch. größenordungsmäßig 23, alles gesteckt, scheint mir ein hervorragender wert. düfte für die straßennutzung alles sein was man so braucht, und wenn man sich anschaut für welches geld der zylinder im zweifelsfall zu haben ist ist das ein echtes schnäppchen, finde ich.

rechne dir mal spaßeshalber zusammen was ein klasse zwei esc motor samt karre kostet, und wie viel kilometer da pro jahr zu rennen gefahren werden. da kann schon sein dass neben dem spaß auch noch ein gewisser ehrgeiz eine rolle spielt. ansonsten hat mike ja schon die infos gepostet. 181 finde ich extrem wenig. krass dass da so viel leistung ansteht.

ich glaube dein teil der rollerwelt ist eben nur dein teil. andererort gibt's so was wie ehrgeiz und wettbewerb schon.

i think we are talking to a kiwi relocated to a southgerman location. the occasional criticism towards him was by some inhabitants of the place in question considered an attack of their hometown in general, hence the term "ingolstadt-bashin". his being in germany caused my remark about pump fuel with over 91 octance being readily available. i was not aware newzealand and it's fuel was a market large enough to be targeted.

ich kürze den zylinder, wenn er eh' schon aufgespannt ist, direkt mit und drehe unbedingt eine fase an. gerade bei den recht spannkräftigen gs ringen ist der versuch die ohne fase einzufädeln nicht voll prickelnd.

der motor ist in einem wettbewerbsfahrzeug verbaut, wird also eventuell im kommenden jahr nicht ausschließlich zum spaß sondern eventuell mit einem kompetitiven hintergrund genutzt. keine ahnung inwieweit prodigy interesse an einer weiteren proliferation von know-how interessiert ist.

i don't think anybody called the dyno (i happen to be one of the guys to have given input for the development of the very software it runs) in question. the only thing gerhard, and i among others with him, found strange was the climate correcting factor, which is stated on the dyno sheets. the figures given there are utterly unrealistic. the sheet says environment temperatur was 8° C or so (quite realistic), but the correcting factor was calculated on 80°C (which is a somewhat implausible figure for a dyno run by a human being, at least if you're a kiwi and not a finn). as a result the correction factor is 1,136 instead of something like 1,036. that's a difference of about 10°. the correct figure is therefore roughly 10% lower than the one on the graph (19 ps or so instead of 21). please remember that a dyno is nothing but a tool, and like all tools it needs to be used with a certain expertise for good results. if, for instance, you have one run out of 10 which shows a significantly higher figure than all previous and all later runs there is little point in relying on a result which cannot be reproduced reliably. apart from that i don't think you have described the relation between squish and rev/overrev potential correctly. the engines we use in endurance racing (anything up to 24 hours) are small capacity, still they are run on a squish of around 0.5 of a mm. they will happily rev to 13 500 and more. some kart engines run a similar squish and will rev on to 18 000. these are fixed gear mainly, which appears to make a difference. i believe there is more to head geometry than just a low or a high squish. all that is neiter here nor there to be discussed, do whatever works for you. what are the transfers based on? i find for an engine to be used on the road mainly it could do with a bit more punch down at lower rpm. ever thought about using a redeveloped S&S pipe?

part of my job is preparation of endurance race engines. we are constantly working with det-counter and egt, and i honestly don't see what you concern is about. depending on climate conditions or altitude one needs to rejet, but that's one of the reasons most carb manufacturers opt for screw in type jets. i'm only asking because literature does not consider the charge trapped in the squish gap relevant for performance. with a compression ratio of 10:1 we are talking about some 13.5 ccm of fresh charge at tdc. with your 125cc engine one mill of squish equals about 2,5cc of fresh charge, that's roughly a fifht of what you have managed to get into the engine, and according to literature, it's benefit for the actual combustion process is at least dubious. what's the two stroke twin you are talking about?

weiß prodigy. ich glaub' aber auslass iss irgendwas um 185, überströmer hab' ich verdrängt. peinlich eigentlich.

from what i understand you have modified your first statement of the falc cylinder being a copy of something else (which, between you and me, is a grave insult to the developer) to a more plausibel statement, which in a nutshell, is something along the lines that the developer has done his homework and studied the information that is available (which, between you and me, is something more akin to praise than insult. you are, btw. not alone with your present assessment; it is indeed shared by a number of kart racing companies plus a few other people in the industrie). just one more piece of information: my falc engine makes 30bhp and has no welding on the casing. i have not decided not to do any welding because i considered it to much of an effort, in fact i have a fully equipped workshop inlcuding professional ac-tig equipment, i have decided against welding because it simply is not necessary, at least not for 30bhp. i therefore do not consider your decision not to weld your crankcase a drawback in terms of performance. why do you think a squish of say 1mm or 1,2 as oposed to the 1,7 or so you are using (if i remember correctly you even said 2.2 would be industry standard) would be detrimental? what's the squish got to do with compression ratio anyway? usually i have found that a slightly higher compression ratio makes for better low rpm throttle response without any detriments, that's if the head design is chosen accordingly. btw.: you are aware that in germany at least pump fuel has anything up to 100 octane? plug and play on what motor? pv/pk 125? if so you may want to keep in mind the original overall transmission ratio plus the notorious gap between third and fourth. with the power curve you posted (minus the 10 odd percent or so) you may find fouth gear somewhat tall to pull nicely.

glückwunsch

jo, iss wohl so. bei 2stroker läuft der aber wohl nicht ganz so gut. prodigy hat seine karre jetzt einfach mal hier stehen lassen, wir wollten noch ein bißchen was in sachen auspuff versuchen. kann aber schon sein dass der auslass mit der eher zahmen steuerzeit nicht wesentlich mehr hergiebt. auf mich macht's aber auch so schon einen guten eindruck. wenn man überlegt dass das esc klasse 1 ist ist das auf jeden fall ziemlich gut. nicht verkehrt, der zylinder. eventuell auch ganz interesant zu sehen wie sich der 33er zum 28er auswirkt. wir hatten leider keine zwischenschritte (30-32) zur hand, sonst hätten wir da noch mal schauen können. ich denke aber der 33er iss schon ok.

maybe i'm a bit thick, but actually i do fail to see these similarities. didn't you say it was a copy of a honda cylinder? if so, could you please state the year and the modell (nsr 125 i take) of the honda cylinder you are referring to? regardless of what your answer is i would like to point out that the falc cylinder, unlike your average yamdasusaki cylinder, fits on a smallframe engine with little if any modifications. if memory serves me right it also has the distinct advantage over the abovementioned items of being aircooled. in addition to that it works with a crankshaft of 51mm stroke, which to my knowledge is not at all common with 125 twostrokes. it also pumps out a healthy 30 brake at just over 9 grand, which in terms of bmep is a figure which to me at least implies a certain understanding of things two-stroke; the use of a reedvalve induction partly feeding into the transfers alone hardly qualifies it as a copy of either a honda or a kawasaki. i seem to remember though that this topic at first dealt with the qualities of your cylander, i personally fail to understand the relevance of the falc debate. what is your comment about the strange climate correction factor? what are your goals in terms of further development of your cylinder? will you be trying to find more power? or will you work on bringing the revs down a bit? or will you be fitting different carbutettors only?